Carolynn Helton's Classes
This site shows all the classes I have taught or currently teach. My goal is to have all the curriculum available here online for students, parents and myself. Currently I am teaching Photography/Yearbook, Art Exporations, Video/Media, Leadership and Mixed Media Arts at ERCLC (Eleanor Roosevelt) .
Depth of Field = 3 photos.
Refer to this handout first:
Beginner ISO, Shutter, Aperature
YOU WILL HAVE A QUIZ ON THIS WORTH 16 POINTS.
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Photo 1 is shallow depth of field at F 1.8 using the 50mm lens.
Photo 2 is F 9 for medium
Photo 3 is F22 for maximum
Notice how the background changes even though the focus is on the subject.
Click images to see larger, you will see the background changes better.
Photo 1 = Shallow F1.8
Photo 2 = Medium f9
Photo 3= Maximum f22
Each photo needs edited in Photoshop and is worth 8 points, half of which is editing.
Depth of Field is controlled by your Aperture priority also referred to as your F=Stop. For this project, you will use each other as your subjects and do the following:
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Make sure you are 15 feet or more away from a textured/interesting wall/background. There are many cool old walls and surfaces to use around campus.
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These are worth double the points photos are usually, I am looking for well posed portraits with people looking at the camera! Do not have the harsh light blind the person. Use the sun/light in a direction that is flattering, Bright Shade is very flattering Light filtering in behind the person is too.
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“Fill the Frame” and/or use “Emphasis with placement” for each photo. BUT, for the Depth of Field, all three photos need to be shot with the same composition and lighting. Essentially it is the same photo, the only difference is that you are changing the Aperture (F Stop)…The A on the camera dial. Facial expressions can be different to have fun with this though.
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Zoom in with your feet since this is a fixed prime lens. If you look at the photos below, you can see the background also goes more blurry if you are closer to the subject. If you want to see more drastic changes in the background be closer to the subject. If you have an interesting background, you may want to be a little further back.
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All of these below were taken at f1.8, notice how the background is according to how close you are to the subject.
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Make sure this is essentially the same photo and you are only changing the F Stop/Aperture for all three photos!
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The first photo will be a shallow depth of field. Use the 50mm at 1.8 (the A for Aperture on the dial). You will edit and save this photo in drop box in a folder called depth of field called shallow.jpg. The result should be a blurred off background.
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The second photo will be medium depth of field. Use the 50mm at 1.8 (the A for Aperture on the dial). Have your F Stop/Aperture at F stop 9. You will edit and save this photo in drop box in a folder called depth of field called medium.jpg. The result should be a background that is somewhat in focus but somewhat blurred off as well.
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The third photo will be maximum depth of field. Use the 50mm at 1.8 (the A for Aperture on the dial). Have your F Stop/Aperture at F stop 22. You will edit and save this photo in drop box in a folder called depth of field called maximum.jpg. The result should be a background that is in focus as well as the subject.
If you are in bright shade have your ISO at 100 or 200. Once you get up to F22 you might need to up your ISO to 400 in bright shade. Keep an eye on what the camera puts as your shutter speed (should be no less than 1/30th or 1/60th if zoomed in. Rule of thumb is no less than the focal length of your lens. If you are shooting at 55m try to stay at 1/60th or faster.
If you are in bright sun and the shadows work for an interesting photo, then use ISO 100.
